FAQ

Is LED lightsource dimmable?

As incandescent and halogen bulbs are being phased out, what was once the best solution for light dimming has now become a thing of the past.
However, there are alternatives.
Dimmable LED bulbs have become more common and are available at reasonable prices. You just need to be aware that not all types of LED light sources and dimmers are compatible with each other.

Dimming an LED light source can cause more issues than dimming traditional incandescent bulbs used to.
For example, you may experience flickering LEDs — either at full brightness or, more commonly, at low brightness levels.
It can also happen that the LED light source doesn’t turn off completely when the dimmer is switched off.
Whenever possible, you’ll get the best dimming performance by using a dimmer and light source from the same manufacturer. However, this isn’t always an option, in which case the best alternative is to look for a compatible combination of dimmer and light source. Typically, you can find lists of compatible light sources – such as here:

https://www.lk.dk/professionel/produktoversigt/afbrydermateriel-og-montering2/fuga/funktionsmuligheder/lysdaemper/dimmertool/

Even if you have followed all the above steps, you may still experience problems – for example, the number of light sources can also be one of the reasons why the light does not dim as smoothly as desired. Often, this can be remedied by adding a resistor to the installation – All of this is something we can help and advise on.

If the circuit breaker trips — typically just before you’re expecting guests and the kitchen is in full swing — it’s because your electrical system is overloaded by too many appliances in the house. Most often, these are devices like the dishwasher, oven, washing machine, kettle, and similar items. The breaker trips as it should, protecting the wiring in your installation from damage.

If this happens to you, a new cable may need to be run from your electrical panel to handle the increased load from the connected appliances. You might also need a new breaker module installed in the panel.

The earth connection (also called protective conductor) together with an RCD (Residual Current Device) breaker is an important protection. You can see the physical connection as the third prong on the plug, and in fact, it is a legal requirement for this connection to be present in new installations.
If you purchase appliances classified as Class II devices — for example, an oven or washing machine — most manufacturers will not provide a factory warranty if this connection is missing. This is because an installation without grounding cannot ensure protection against damage to connected equipment.

But even more importantly, a missing ground connection can be life-threatening in case of a fault. Therefore, it is recommended to have the ground connection checked to ensure it is active, or if a new installation is needed, for example, for your new washing machine.

See also the next topic concerning appliances that cause electric shocks.

Appliances that give an electric shock when touched, especially when there is contact between an appliance component and another kitchen element or metal pipe/sink.

The fault is due to the lack of grounding of the machine. There can be several reasons, but the fault can often be remedied with an adapter or by replacing the plug on the machine with a plug with a Danish “pindjord” (3-pin plug). The reason is that appliances from the factory come with European ‘Schuko’ plugs with side grounding, which do not transfer the protective conductor to Danish outlets.
However, the issue can also be caused by a lack of grounding in the fixed installation (see the previous section).

There is a fault in an appliance that is connected, or in the electrical installation.

There are typically two ways such a fault is experienced: Either the RCD (Residual Current Device) trips completely and cannot be reset, or the RCD trips periodically. But when the fault is experienced, the following steps can help in identifying where the fault lies:

If there are multiple circuit groups in the panel, you can try turning them all off, then turn on the HPFI breaker, and subsequently turn on the circuit breakers one by one while observing which group causes the residual-current device to trip. The same can be done with connected appliances by plugging and unplugging them from the outlets. If it’s possible to remove the fault by disconnecting an appliance, the fault is localized. But if the fault persists, it’s typically in the installation.

If you’re unsure, you can call and arrange a visit from our electrician, who will identify the issue and provide a solution.

As of July 1, 2008, it has been legally required that all homes have a functioning residual-current device (RCD/HPFI) for safety.
This means it must be installed, whether you are renovating the installation now or if the installation is still in its pre-law condition. An HPFI breaker is an electrical component that ensures the power is cut off in case of faults in electrical appliances or accidents.

For example, the breaker trips if you come into contact with live parts. This ensures that you cannot get an electric shock without this breaker tripping – provided that it is installed correctly, and that the relay is functional – all of which we, as authorized electrical installers, check with approved equipment before commissioning.

See also the topic regarding HFI (Old type of RCD) and disconnection in thunderstorms.

You can do a couple of things to investigate where the fault lies:

  1. check your meter. It’s either located at the panel (typically just below the panel in apartments in Copenhagen) or it’s mounted externally on the building if you live in a house. You should check the display on the meter: is there any activity on the display? If not, then the fault is likely external. – If there is life in the display, then you should check if all phases are available to the meter. Look in the bottom left corner of the display – does it say L1, L2, L3? If so, there is power to the meter – and then you need our help to find the fault.
  2. Was there no power in the meter, or are there missing phases? In that case, there are two possibilities: Either there is a major outage due to an error from the utility company, or the fuse in the cable cabinet by the road has blown. Here you still have a couple of options to figure out which of the above possibilities applies.
  3. You can call the Utility Company – for example. Radius – you can also check operational information online.
    https://radiuselnet.dk/elnetkunder/driftinformation/
    Alternatively, you can try checking whether other homes in the area have power. If the neighbors have power, it’s likely that the fuses for your house or property have blown. In this case, you need to contact an electrical installer like us; we also provide service 24/7.

Note that the above primarily applies to single-family homes. If you live in an apartment, there will be larger fuses for, for example, an entire stairwell. However, checking the operating information with the power company can also determine whether the building’s electrician needs to address the problem. Basically, it’s important to first determine if there’s a larger outage in the area—if not, we can help troubleshoot and restore power.

Many places in Copenhagen only have access to one phase. This is especially true for apartments where the installation dates back to the building’s original construction in the early 1900s.
If you don’t have more than one phase, you cannot (legally) install a cooktop such as an induction or ceramic electric cooktop/oven.

The issue typically arises when you remove a gas cooker and instead want an electric cooker. In this case, it is necessary to have at least 2 phases, and preferably 3 phases, as the power supply.
So what is the solution?

In many places, you can connect the missing phases through a so-called “riser” and wire the meter/installation to have a 3-phase installation; perhaps they are already extended to the floor but not wired into the meter. In some cases, the installation is so old that the 3 phases are not brought into the building at all, and must therefore be routed from the street’s utility cabinet.
As a result, there can be a significant difference in cost depending on where the additional phases need to be brought in.
An important piece of advice is to check this before removing the gas installation and purchasing an induction cooktop or oven.
If you need guidance, you are welcome to contact us — we can often look up your installation with the utility company and explore your options.

The short answer is yes!

The reason is basically that old fabric-wireing are very old. Large parts of Copenhagen were built in the 1920s and 1930s, so the original electrical installations are also from this period. In the city center, some installations are even older, dating back to the late 1800s in some cases.

It’s easy to imagine that such old installations don’t have the same standard as new electrical installations with plastic-insulated conductors. Indeed, the age is precisely what causes the fabric insulation to deteriorate, crack, and sometimes completely fall off the copper wires. Absolutely, the fact that fabric-insulated wires are often routed through steel conduits only exacerbates the problem. This is why short circuits, poor connections, and even fire hazards often occur due to weak joints.
It is always recommended to have old fabric-insulated wires removed. This is possible because older installations were carried out in conduits, allowing them to be re-wired with, for example, new cables.

If you have fabric-insulated wiring and postpone replacing them, it’s particularly important to ensure that you have a functioning residual-current device (RCD) – and optionally, you can install an arc fault detector as an extra safety measure.

We have many years of experience in replacing fabric-insulated wiring with new installations and are happy to provide a fixed price.

If you experience the residual-current device (RCD) tripping during thunderstorms, you most likely have an older RCD installed in the electrical panel.

In addition to the inconvenience of losing power and possibly having to reset clocks, it’s a problem if you have a freezer or refrigerator running without electricity. If it happens while you’re away from home, you might risk having to discard perishable food items.

HFI is an older type of residual-current device that was completely phased out in 1991, and from that year onwards, it’s no longer legal to install. Even though an HFI installed before 1991 is fully legal, it is advisable to replace it with a newer type of residual-current device (RCD) known as HPFI. The new type will usually be less prone to tripping during lightning strikes. It will also be safer, as the type is designed for the electronic devices commonly found in homes today.

I have written a longer explanation about this and similar questions here.